Tuesday, 23 February 2010

lfw day five - and we're done!

Tribal and digital printing, military tailoring, drapery, shearling and some high octane glamour; this can only mean the last day of womenswear at fashion week. Also featuring what everyone has been waiting for -- how could I go any further without mentioning (read RAVING) about the Burberry show?! So with no further ado, let's get going...

Returning to London with a gorgeous and inspiring show, Burberry's models wore surely the most coveted outfits down the catwalk. Shearling aviation jackets were worn layered over body-con strapped dresses, floating wisps of military coloured chiffon and paired with clunky buckled boots or those sexy thigh highs, providing us with perfect seasonal transition clothing. Burnished gold flocked skirts accompanied boxy tailored jackets, while fluffy coats completed the textured collection, some of which were available to the blessed amongst us for the next 72 hours online. For everyone else, well we can but look - see below for drooling without the plummeting bank balance...

Continuing with the lustworthy, Eun Jeong was another favourite of the day for me. The winner of 2009's Fashion Fringe at Covent Garden blew me away with this stellar show; the expertly executed draping on many pieces (especially the silver-grey draped dress with lace detailed neckline) and the clean, simplistic lines of this collection moved her on from last season's flamboyantly white and shredded show. As for the styling - I absolutely LOVE those Miro-esque tights and socks!

Ashish was another designer who wowed me with his AW 10 collection; paperbag-waists on tweedy trousers and skirts, shimmering sequin-covered tribal prints on many a dress, skirt, trouser and vest (in fact there probably wasn't an article of clothing that didn't get the tribal treatment in this show!) all layered up with chunky argylle knits or large-shouldered jackets and topped off with slouchy woollen hats. Adding a lot of glamour and colour to the colder months to come.

Forties glamour was brought courtesy of Jenny Packham, who sent her ladies down the catwalk in slinky sequinned, embroidered and printed maxi dresses, as well as a couple of kimono inspried pieces.

Basso and Brooke also went in for the tribal theme but with much more of an animalistic twist, paired with Romany style detailing and some floral prints in there too.

Left to right: Leather fantasy wear; Amanda Wakeley's stunning leather dress and silk jumpsuit; Peter Pilotto's architectural folds.

Aren't we all going to be looking great this autumn?!

Monday, 22 February 2010

lfw day four

Another spectacular day of fashion at Somerset House; highlights today were fractural prints, volume, leather+lace, beautiful cutwork and knits.

One of my absolute faves (as per usual) Erdem delighted AGAIN with his own very personal brand of English eccentricity. An English woodland in the medium of modern technology - shattered prints exploded onto the catwalk in the form of voluminous and structured pieces. Whether it was deep tones of peacock colours worked into body shaping mini dresses or pastel lace ruffled maxis; silk spliced together with butterfly and swallow printed fabric or a shearling trimmed camel trench, this collection was set to amaze with every step that the models took in their heavy duty hiking boots. Complete A/W perfection!

More autumn theme from Christopher Kane too, with his impressive mix of floral embroidery in combination with leather which was then worked into sultry lace. Taking and expanding on 'underwear as outerwear' Kane showed some really showstopping pieces and a great sense of intricate workmanship.

Autumn would be nothing without snuggling up in some fashion foward knits and luckily we have Pringle to show us the way. Chunky or sleek, Pringle's pieces were paraded down the catwalk in colours of grey, nude and monotones; with mini dresses, leather pleated gladiator-style skirts and bold knit shoulders this show was most definitely sexy!

The best of the rest from Day 4...

Marios Schwab - nude embellished dungaree dress, pleated corsetry, cropped architectural jackets and embellished crop waistcoats layered over sweeping maxi dresses. How very seductive.

Roksanda Ilincic - bringing a 1940s glamour to the proceeding with silk flowing dresses and styling.

Sunday, 21 February 2010

lfw three.. is the magic number

Day three and the overall feel is one of classic shapes with a modernised twist, all very serious and strong.

Usually the king of the floaty and romantic dress, Matthew Williamson sent models down the catwalk in structured draping, tailored leather trousers and pleated jacket in solid colours.

Richard Nicholl also showed sublime structure, although with a very regal tone; fabrics such as velvet were draped and layered over sheer dresses, skirts and shirts, all in jewelled tones of auburn and sapphire. Beautifully done, this was is one of my favourites so far - grown up and sexy.

Lousie Goldin was another that impressed greatly with her ingeniously different sculpturing. Peplums on dresses and skirts were contouring bringing a feminine and overtly sexy shpae to her collection. Paired with tightly cinched waistbelts, utility pockets and (yes more!) leather, there was a smart and somewhat space-age feel that lingered.

We all love a bit of drama, and that's exactly what the clever heads behind Meadham Kirchhoff gave us with this fantastical and stunning show. Distressed and embellished knits thrown over - and under! - bright printed silk maxi dresses, accessorised with crowns of varying sizes, shapes and colours; this is a collection for anarchic young women who want trashed luxury. Gorgeous.

Best of the rest from Day 3...

Jungle Book theme at Mulberry - lots of feminine ruffles, nudes and prints mixed up in rompers, skirts and cardigans.

Classically strong looks from Vivienne Westwood - tribal designs, dark tartans, wool coats and asymmetry.